Відео

When I built my Gen 18, I used a heat gun to heat up a metal plate, and use that heated plate to cut into the foam and that is very effective. I wanted to used the same method to cut a hole into the foam. Unfortunately, I don't have a suitable metal pipe. Therefore I sandwiched the PVC pipe into two layers of 2" foam. I will show more details on how I did that in my future video.

Thanks for your suggestion. I have bought the drop cloth from Harbor Freight (Cotton Canvas material) and I plan to use that. I am not aware I can use craft paper. I will investigate that first. Thanks.

謝謝您的支持。這艘船需要 20 天左右的時間建造。它是值得我花時間和精力去建造。

I'm glad you like it. Thanks for watching!

Yes, it is fun to build. You can scale the design to a larger or smaller pontoon boat.

Yes, this is my plan. I will install the sail kit I used on this boat: ua-cam.com/video/8roMckSj-ws/v-deo.htmlsi=Uc9NSTY-uC4AVz3c

Yes, I have considered to buy the 4' long aluminum pipes, cut it into two pieces for the cross bars. But the local shop only has 3' long ones, therefore I decided to keep the width to 29" in this design.

Thanks for the question. You are lucky that you can get a 5'x10' coroplast. Even though it is 4mm, it will work. I have built boats using 4 mm coroplast. It is easier to build a boat with 4 mm thick than the 6 mm one I have. My friend built two kayaks is using 4 mm thick 4' x 8' coroplast from Homedepot. makezine.com/projects/origami-kayak/ You have to pay more attention when building the boat, especially don't step on it and compress the coroplast. If you can get a 4'x8' 6 mm or even 10 mm coroplast to make the floor and it will be even better. You can also double up the 4 mm thick coroplast for the floor. please watch this playlist also. ua-cam.com/play/PL2ShZzOUu01v-D-Ap1XcX8TgnFlzwf1NP.html&si=b79abq8uxXlGH3CW I have updated the design of this Gen 23+ kayak. If you are under 5'8" - 9" and weigh less than 170 lbs, my newer design will be even better (faster, looks better, better tracking). I will upload the undated design in a few weeks. I have tested that newer design but I have to find time to make the video to share. Cheers!

My guess this motor in calm water can push the boat at 3 knots (based on results from a similar design using a similar motor). The battery I used can support the motor for approx. 45 minutes at full speed, that means it can push the boat for a little more than 2 miles. I expect it can travel further if I keep the motor at 1/2 speed and can run the motor for 1.5 hours.

You are so welcome!

Thanks!

Thanks for watching. As usual I want to be able to fit the boat inside my car. Now I got a slightly longer car and I can fit a longer pontoon. I looked up the 'Fish Cat' frame and it is a bit too large for me. Will have an update in the next few days. Cheers.

Thanks for watching and your support.

I agree, it is difficult to find a sheet of coroplast larger than 4'x8'. I am aware of this situation and I have experimented with heat fusion to fuse two 4'x8' sheets to build a longer boat. Home Depot do sell 5 or 6 mm thick 4'x8' coroplast (but you have to buy a few sheets), which is a good candidate for this. Here in Portland, Oregon, you can get a 5' x 10' coroplast from a local plastic shop and the price is very reasonable. Their coroplast are usually cheaper than Home Depot and you can also buy a single sheet. In this latest project, I used the foam I bought 4 years ago, which was $18 on sales. Nowadays, it is so expensive. A foam boat can last for many years. I will have videos giving you more details in building my 6th pontoon boat in the next 4-6 weeks. Hope this will inspire you to build one also :-)

Thanks for your support and inputs. I have used the expandable rods in my other projects. They are inexpensive. As for the pontoon boat, those rods are usually very thin and not strong enough for the cross beams. When I built my Gen 2 pontoon boat, I used the PVC pipe to build the whole platform. I did consider using the PVC pipe again for this latest boat. Finally I decided to spend a bit more money to use the 3/4" aluminum pipes for the cross beams/p[atform. It is because I want to haver a boat that can last for a few years. When I built my very first pontoon boat, which is a catamaran. I used 3/4" steel pipes and the platform is 4' wide. It is very stable. The boat is heavy. I want to transport the boat inside my car hence I don't want the boat to be too wide (this means the platform will be too large). With this design, I am keeping the width to 29".

Thanks for watching and kind feedback. I am modifying that boat to increase the deck space, add a fish finder, and accessories for fishing. Will share a video on the changes. Cheers!😀

@@DIYUSA cool, that was the same thing in my mind to possibly widen it up a little then add a paddle drive

This pedal drive made in China, which allows seller to put their brand on it. You can see a similar ( I would say the same drive) from this supplier on Aliexpress: www.aliexpress.us/item/3256805584691663.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.main.63.4110UfvWUfvWah&algo_pvid=d0e01933-4ed8-436a-b0ad-92a2107d57ce&algo_exp_id=d0e01933-4ed8-436a-b0ad-92a2107d57ce-31&pdp_npi=4%40dis%21USD%21465.26%21437.34%21%21%213344.82%213144.13%21%402101c59817160047611513643ecde8%2112000034292136921%21sea%21US%210%21AB&curPageLogUid=Khf9wZkfs6C2&utparam-url=scene%3Asearch%7Cquery_from%3A

Your question is answered by many people in this video :-) ua-cam.com/video/tOR1068bbEM/v-deo.htmlsi=qncjEketRmULvxhI In a good day, no raw sewage and rainwater spilled into the Willamette River due to heavy rains and Portland's Big Pipe system reaching capacity, the water isn't too bad. Of course I will not drink it, and avoid swimming in it. But many people do swim in this section of the river, as shown in the attached video.

Thanks, glad you enjoyed my videos! Have a great day!

Thanks for watching!

Thanks for watching and your question. I used plastic wrapping film to cover the foam. It doesn't help with strengthening the foam surface. You don't really need that. I happened to have that on hand. I used coroplast to wrap the foam and it protects the foam. The foam provided the extra rigidity to the kayak. Water will go inside the inner layer between the foam and the coroplast. If you need more information, please let me know, I can provide video to illustrate that.

@@DIYUSA Where do you get the foam?

@@d.j.aguilar6208 I bought the foam at home depot in US : www.homedepot.com/b/Building-Materials-Insulation-Foam-Board-Insulation/XPS/N-5yc1vZbaxxZ1z0w1xo

Thank you for the link!!!

@@d.j.aguilar6208 You are welcome! Hope you can get what you need.

Thanks for asking. My goal has always been to build a simple and usable boat for calm rivers and lakes. I do build boats for the pacific coast and able to handle wind force 3-4. The keel can provide additional structural strength, tracking, etc. But it will add complexity to the design. Structurally my current designs should be OK for the target usages. If you are after the better tracking characteristics with a keel, there are different methods to accomplish that, such as adding chines to the bottom of the boat, or you can add skegs, which is easy to do with a foldable boat. I have worked onboard ships between 25000 tons to 200,000 tons. Most of the ships I have been to have keels. I have experienced pushing a railed cart inside the duct keel of a double-bottom ship. I could hear the occasional metallic cracking sounds otherwise it would a very quiet environment. The feeling was eerie. Then I worked on a super oil tanker, which really don’t have a traditional keel. The bottom is a huge flat sheet of metal plate (called flat keel design) with longitudinal structural beams running from the front to the rear and huge frames on the side . In a way it is very similar to my foldable coroplast boat (inside the coroplast has the longitudinal channels running from the front to the rear of the boat). :-)

Thanks for the feedback. I am working on my Gen 24, hope to be able to test it in a month.

Thanks for checking with me. I have not provided a plan for the floor. I will not be able to give the exact dimensions because there are slightly variations in the final size of the boat. I will create a simple video to illustrate how to do that, please give me a few days (may be on or before this weekend) because I am packing up for a road trip. Cheers!

@@DIYUSAAmazing, thank you!

@@ObscureNacho I have uploaded the video on how I make the floor for the kayaks. Please let me know if you need more information. Cheers! ua-cam.com/video/owVGAtDUIs4/v-deo.html

@@DIYUSAThank you! You are a legend, thank you for all of your work.

@@ObscureNacho Thanks. Hope you can build a kayak better than mine from the videos. The 1st simple implementation of the floor works for my body weight of 140 lbs, However, when the weight increases to > 200 lbs, the side walls start to collapse. Hence I doubled up the back panel of the seat and that can solve the problem.

Yes, you need separate ESC for each motor. There are multiple reasons: A single ESC probably will not be able to handle the current requirement for both motors. Also the performance of the motors may not be the same and you have to adjust the speed of each motor. With two motors, very likely the starboard prop would turn clockwise, and the port prop counter-clockwise.

Thanks for providing the feedback. Glad it was helpful!

Thanks for watching and your question. Before buying a pedal drive, you may want to check if the drive's mounting mechanism compatible with your kayak. Since I design my kayak, I bought the drive and then design a mount for the drive. If I buy anther drive, I prefer one that can be mounted easier than the one I have. If you buy the drive from Alibaba, I suggest you to look into a fin drive, which cost a little bit more. 😀 You may check out the review of this pedal drive: ua-cam.com/video/lWGcRsaLnlM/v-deo.html also a suggestion to get it cheaper from Alibaba ua-cam.com/video/-km87kkrE38/v-deo.html

Thank you very much Sir for the response, the pedal model that you show in your video works well for my kayak. The question I have is that I notice that he pedals too much and the pedal system is not fast. Can you tell me if it is so, or am I wrong?

@@danielbraz8119 The boat I built to fit the pedal drive is an experiment. The boat itself is not a fast boat. With the extra width and side pontoons further slow down the boat. I recycled the material and built a better boat, as shown in this video. ua-cam.com/video/XosqjTPKc9M/v-deo.html It is a faster boat, but I have not had time to create the mount for the paddle drive for this newer design. Now, I am consider building a 12' modular foam boat and also use this pedal drive. It is still in the design phase and I will be building it around end of May. Hope I can give you an update this summer. Cheers!

Thanks for taking time to give me the feedback. I am glad you are able to fix the leak. I share your frustration and that's why I created this video. Your feedback is an excellent encouragement for me to share more videos on what I have learned.🙂 Cheers!

Thanks for watching. That is my 2nd design and the video is here. ua-cam.com/video/iRv7EY3Qa-4/v-deo.htmlsi=n4ga8viS97inoKxp Now, I am on my Gen 23 which is very close to a product level design. My newer designs are all lighter 13-15 lbs, (under 10 ft) or around 20 lbs for the 13.5 ft long kayak. You can see more designs on my channel www.youtube.com/@DIYUSA/videos or go to www.DIYUSA.org Cheers!

谢谢您的询问，如果您在中国，您可以从许多制造商处购买，例如：www.runpingplast.com/coroplast-board/ 在美国，您可以在 HomeDepot.com 中搜索 coroplast 购买。 您可以在此处下载船图 www.DIYUSA.org 您还可以在我的频道 ua-cam.com/users/DIYUSA 上查看我的最新的设计 。😀

​@@DIYUSA我这边搜到的不是克洛普胶带就是聚丙烯材料做的蜂窝中空板，看您的材料好柔软的😂

@@user-hq2rz4tm4e 我从中国购买coroplast，它有不同的设计。制造商很多，而且在中国非常便宜。15-25 美元 1 张 5' x 12' 尺寸。在中国建造一艘船可能只需50美元。您可以使用 5 或 6 毫米厚的 coroplast

Thanks watching and your support. I used this heat fusion method to build different things. I use heat gun and my friend used clothing iron to fuse the coroplast. The joint is very strong.

Thanks for watching. I am working on an update to the design.

Thanks for watching. I still have to finish a video to show how I can cool the power converter/controller. Please stay tuned.

It is very nice of you to provide the detailed steps you took to repair the valve. It is a very good tips to use the tooth brush to clean the inside wall of the cylinder. I know many people will find your input very useful. Cheers!

I appreciate your feedback, this will encourage others to try, hopefully the TV will not go to the landfill so soon. Thanks for providing the improved method to protect the board, especially he cables connected to the motherboard. They are very fragile (limited cycle time - to save $). For me, this method to fix the soldering issue will keep the TV running from a few weeks to a few months. If it fails again, I am able to fix that by reapplying heat to the chip. 😶

Thanks for asking. Many people asked the same question and I have my reply on my web site, please check out this page: www.diyusa.org/blog

@@DIYUSA I can't buy this product in my country In India

Thanks for watching!

Thanks for your support. The weather is getting a bit better, I am working on my next boat 🙂

Thanks for your comment. I am also a senior citizen at age 70. One of the reasons I design/built these boats is weight. My latest design is lighter than a similar one you can buy in the market, around 14 lbs. A few months ago, a few friends of mine, the oldest one is 75 decided to build my Gen 23+ kayak. I have created tutorial and plans for those who are interested to build one. ua-cam.com/video/CJoqdonBN8g/v-deo.html

A very good question! I have built foam boats using the wood glue (the same glue many other people use also). Before I built this one, I also tried spray foam to glue the foam blocks together. I found this method produce a very strong bond and is much easier and faster to apply than the wood glue. Again, I am not the first person using spray foam to glue the foam blocks. I learned from others. I have also used PMFG method to coverup the foam. With this boat, I experimented with Gorilla tape to make the build faster. It works well for me, and this video is a review of the result ua-cam.com/video/XosqjTPKc9M/v-deo.html Whether you use wood glue or spray foam, there is also the PMFG layer, or the Gorilla tape to hold the foam blocks together. I believe this foldable kayak will last for many years if I take good care of it. It is the only boat I feel comfortable to use at the Pacific Coast for crabbing and fishing because it is very stable and will not sink.🙂

@@DIYUSA thank you for the detailed answer! I'm thinking to try and build a foam boat and add a layer of "rubber paint". The one that is used to protect cars frame from weather. Not sure if it will stick properly to the foam, so it will be a test.

@@carpathiancraftsman There is a company doing something similar. The paint will form a hard shell and protect the foam. I will find out more info for you in the next few days. One thing has to care about is if the paint will 'eat into' the foam.

@@DIYUSA very true. I will first test it on a small piece. I have that paint because I was supposed to work on my car last summer, but I couldn't. So I have it here. I think that paint which contains strong solvent melts the foam

Thanks for the feedback. This is an older video, I have been improving the technique and the recent method is easier to implement. You can watch the video here: ua-cam.com/video/q_vSj8w4lj0/v-deo.html

I appreciate your feedback and also subscribed. Glad to know it works for you!😀

Yes, you can download the plan here. On this page, it also has links pointing to the videos that may help you to build the boats: www.diyusa.org/boat-plans

Really appreciate your feedback and very happy to see another success story. This motivated me to share more DIY experience on my channel. Cheers!🙂

This is the most challenging part in building a usable boat. That's why I developed heat fusion to extend the 8 ft long coroplast to 14 ft in length. I have answered your question here: www.diyusa.org/blog Please also go to this page, which I have links to the videos on how to do heat fusion: www.diyusa.org/techniques

Yes, you can use heat fusion to build a longer kayak (from the 8' long coroplast). you can check out this article: makezine.com/projects/origami-kayak/ my friend built two folding kayaks using the 4'x8' coroplast from home depot. He used the 4 mm thick one. I suggest you to use the 5 or 6 mm thick one. Gen 23 is newer and is easier to build than the one on Makezine, the tutorial to build that boat is here (Gen 14): ua-cam.com/play/PL2ShZzOUu01v-D-Ap1XcX8TgnFlzwf1NP.html&si=N64h8hWBGSxQrhsg

Thanks for asking, my guess a normal kayak seat is the one you can buy at Amazon. Yes, you can fit that kind of seat. I have tried a more comfortable seat as shown in these videos (on similar boats) ua-cam.com/video/v6GqZUqnQb0/v-deo.htmlsi=M3vXyiIhUodIZwSi and ua-cam.com/video/Zw-eyoF0lH4/v-deo.htmlsi=0e0Hjp4mzbXMO52b The reason I made the seat is because those comfortable seats are usually 3-4 lbs. The one I made is less than 1 lb. I have tested the Gen 23 kayak with a 6 ft tall person weighs 215 lbs. It fits perfectly, much better than I have expected. The draft is at around 3". At 4" draft, which is the max. I will try on that boat, it should be able to handle a load of 245 lbs.

Thanks for your input... Yes, I agree 30A is a lot of current for the 6 gauge wire. I overstated my goal, I probably will keep that down to 20 A, or about 240 Watt to drive the motor. That is about the right level that my battery can handle.